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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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 Posted: Sat, 29th Jun 2013 21:38 Post subject: |
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The place that I got it from told me that I should've returned the product within 14 days (I didn't because I thought the fault was with me, so I stubborny tried to reseat the heatsink over several weeks (last time just like two months ago). The problem is that with every time I've done it (cleaning the thermal paste, reapplying it) it has felt like I've been wearing the hinges out on the heat sink, so the last time I put it on there I decided to just keep it on there and use it until autumn when I might have the resources to buy a new one (have been saving money so my GF and I can have a vacation abroad for the first time since we met, 14 years ago).
Since the heatsink won't exceed any seriously damaging temperatures I'm putting priority to other things.
And honestly, even though I've been building computers for so many times I am still having this lingering sense that perhaps I have made a mistake somehow, I just don't know what.
Yes, yes I'm back.
Somewhat.
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| Posted: Sat, 29th Jun 2013 21:47 Post subject: |
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Hell, it could have been something as simple as some missing washers, it's not unheard of. Why not try watching a couple of fitting videos and see if there's anything that jumps out at you and makes you think "Doh! I didn't do THAT!" ?
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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| Posted: Sat, 29th Jun 2013 21:48 Post subject: |
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Under EU law you get 2 years warranty from the seller. Period.
Even if the manufacturer claims 1 year, it's still 2 years from the seller. And in fact, Apple for example are now legally obliged to do 2 years warranty if you order from the Apple store under EU law; and in some cases, like the UK, BE and NL, even longer. Here in NL the SELLER has to provide warranty for the "expected lifetime" of a product - typically 2-3 years anyway, but you get the idea.
So no, tell them to fuck off and replace your H80i. They can bitch and moan all they want, but as long as you bought it as a private person (businesses are excluded from this particular EU law) within the EU, you get 2 years minimum. They need to either repair or replace it free of charge. Period.
The only thing they can require of you is to prove that you did not break it and that it's a product fault.
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Stige
Posts: 3546
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Sat, 29th Jun 2013 21:48 Post subject: |
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What paste you using?
I had similiar issues with Phobya HeGrease Extreme (Gelid GC Extreme), just couldn't get that shit in there properly no matter what I did, reseated like 20 times and I thought my loop was just that shit back then.
Then came the CLU/CLP and mother of god!
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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| Posted: Sat, 29th Jun 2013 22:10 Post subject: |
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| sabin1981 wrote: | | Hell, it could have been something as simple as some missing washers, it's not unheard of. Why not try watching a couple of fitting videos and see if there's anything that jumps out at you and makes you think "Doh! I didn't do THAT!" ? |
I watched every video out there, including Corsair's own. I did nothing different than what I've done before with countless of heatsinks.
Stige: I use Arctic Silver 5, because habits don't die easy. Been using it since the first version.
edit: I wrote an e-mail to I-net who I bought the thing from, no hopes up but what the heck, they might send me another unit or something, LOL.
Yes, yes I'm back.
Somewhat.
Last edited by fisk on Sat, 29th Jun 2013 22:29; edited 1 time in total
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| Posted: Sat, 29th Jun 2013 22:16 Post subject: |
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Then it sounds like the cooler itself is defective and I agree with Paul; it's your right to demand a replacement. They're not exactly cheap coolers either.
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 00:14 Post subject: |
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| fisk wrote: | | sabin1981 wrote: | | fisk wrote: | | I should add that I have not overclocked my CPU. When I did, even at low load it went well into 90 degrees Celsius. |
Oh shit... something is definitely wrong there  The cooler has to be seated incorrectly, perhaps the mounting bracket is warped? Send it off for an RMA. |
I tried man. (I even had a thread here) - their support service wouldn't get me a ticket after I described the issue. They basically told me that I don't know what I'm doing.
Not a big fan of Corsair anymore. |
Join Overclock.net if you aren't already a member and get a hold of George
http://www.overclock.net/u/158841/corsairgeorge
He's our on forum rep and he's an amazing guy. He's helped a lot of RMA's go through on the forum. I think he was also the one that helped replace the guys hardware who had the H50 leak all over it.
If he wants a reference of who told you to talk to him link him to me
http://www.overclock.net/u/25615/spykez
I'm sure you're pissed but when messaging him, just be nice and polite and I'm sure he'll get your going. |
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 00:22 Post subject: |
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| Werelds wrote: | Under EU law you get 2 years warranty from the seller. Period.
Even if the manufacturer claims 1 year, it's still 2 years from the seller. And in fact, Apple for example are now legally obliged to do 2 years warranty if you order from the Apple store under EU law; and in some cases, like the UK, BE and NL, even longer. Here in NL the SELLER has to provide warranty for the "expected lifetime" of a product - typically 2-3 years anyway, but you get the idea.
So no, tell them to fuck off and replace your H80i. They can bitch and moan all they want, but as long as you bought it as a private person (businesses are excluded from this particular EU law) within the EU, you get 2 years minimum. They need to either repair or replace it free of charge. Period.
The only thing they can require of you is to prove that you did not break it and that it's a product fault. |
It's no where near as simple as you make it sound. Yes you get 2 (or 3 years is it?) where you can still get warranty support, BUT you have to prove that the fault/manufacturing defect was there from the start.. and good luck trying to prove that with most things.
Edited
Ryzen 5 5600, ASUS ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING WIFI II, Corsair Vengeance RGB RT 32GB 3600MHz C16, MSI RTX 5070 Ti Ventus 3X OC , Corsair RMx Series RM750x. AOC AGON AG324UX - 4K 144Hz 1ms
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 00:52 Post subject: |
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Well I say that in the last line as well. But that's easy enough, since you can simply show them in person (if it's a real shop, which is easier) or on photos. Unless there's something bent, scratched or otherwise damaged, they've got nothing to argue that you broke it. And there's places you can report them to in every country; threaten with that and they'll comply quick enough.
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 02:15 Post subject: |
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@fisk You say the backplate is plastic a few times but are you sure? It felt like it was metal to me (I have the H100i but I think they should be the same). The backplate is meant to be loose so that you can move the heatsink/pump around to get the best fit. The thermal paste that comes with it is really good and you shouldn't have removed it, but even so the temps shouldn't be that much different with AS5.
Everything you did seems like the correct way to install it. You screwed the four screws down a little at a time, say a quarter turn, for each one while applying pressure to the pump to keep it square against the CPU, right?
Edit: After thinking about it I am certain that I have a metal backplate.
Ryzen 5 5600, ASUS ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING WIFI II, Corsair Vengeance RGB RT 32GB 3600MHz C16, MSI RTX 5070 Ti Ventus 3X OC , Corsair RMx Series RM750x. AOC AGON AG324UX - 4K 144Hz 1ms
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 02:24 Post subject: |
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| fisk wrote: | | SpykeZ wrote: | | fisk wrote: |
I tried man. (I even had a thread here) - their support service wouldn't get me a ticket after I described the issue. They basically told me that I don't know what I'm doing.
Not a big fan of Corsair anymore. |
Join Overclock.net if you aren't already a member and get a hold of George
http://www.overclock.net/u/158841/corsairgeorge
He's our on forum rep and he's an amazing guy. He's helped a lot of RMA's go through on the forum. I think he was also the one that helped replace the guys hardware who had the H50 leak all over it.
If he wants a reference of who told you to talk to him link him to me
http://www.overclock.net/u/25615/spykez
I'm sure you're pissed but when messaging him, just be nice and polite and I'm sure he'll get your going. |
I made a thread on Sweclockers corsair support section in February,
http://www.sweclockers.com/forum/127-corsair/1184398-corsair-h80i-hard-fasten-s1155/
You think that will suffice as a description for him?
I had a private chat with that Blackbeard-fellow (works for Corsair) who said that I had made a mistake with the backplate and that I should try it again. Pretty much stonewall.
But yeah, I'll reg. there. |
that should suffice. I've never heard of George ever stone walling anyone. He's hailed as a god on OCN lol, dude does everything in his power to make his customers happy. He helped me a couple times as well.
One thing I am curious about, WTF are you doing with a plastic mounting bracket? They're supposed to be steel. Wonder if you got it before a revision? Plastic mounting brakcets aren't going to work, they bend too easy, especially the ones that come with the corsairs.
Or do you mean the bracket that goes behind the motherboard. |
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 02:26 Post subject: |
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Yep Newty, and no, the plate that goes on the back-end of the motherboard is made out of plastic (hard plastic). With the loose screw hole thingys made in metal.
I'm not looking forward to when I have to dismantle this thing again the next time, I think that more screw threads will break.
Yes, yes I'm back.
Somewhat.
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 02:28 Post subject: |
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I also got a metal backplate and clamps with my h80, not plastic. Apparently the old h70 came with a plastic backplate.
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 02:31 Post subject: |
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| fisk wrote: | Yep Newty, and no, the plate that goes on the back-end of the motherboard is made out of plastic (hard plastic). With the loose screw hole thingys made in metal.
I'm not looking forward to when I have to dismantle this thing again the next time, I think that more screw threads will break. |
oh ok, ya the backplate is fine if it's plastic, most of the ones I've used are. You can use any generic one that's metal if you can find threads that work. I thought you meant the bracket that went around the pump.
In all honesty, sell the thing and get something different. The hassle your having realy isn't even worth it. Mark Corsair off your list and get something that works.
The Kraken's are apparently really good. I prefer people buy the Swiftech H220. I personally tell people to just get the XSPC Raystorm kit. |
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 02:45 Post subject: |
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SpykeZ: I'm not a modder, I'm not a guy who will spend a lot of time after I've built my computer. The only maintenance I do is just check for dust every once in awhile and use a bottle of compressed air to blow it out.
Maintaining a full water-cooled unit, replacing fluids and doing the whole tube sealing, etc. - is just too much maintenance for me. I'm basically a pretty lazy guy that no longer spend time putting CCFL's, replacing fans, drilling holes, installing windows etc. - I did that ten years ago, since I've become a "buy, build, use, do low-maintenance" rinse and repeat,
I looked at the Swiftech H220, looks low-maintenance, and if this thing with Greg or with the store I bought the unit from doesn't pan out, I will just toss the h80i this autumn and buy that thing.
Yes, yes I'm back.
Somewhat.
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 18:58 Post subject: |
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| fisk wrote: | SpykeZ: I'm not a modder, I'm not a guy who will spend a lot of time after I've built my computer. The only maintenance I do is just check for dust every once in awhile and use a bottle of compressed air to blow it out.
Maintaining a full water-cooled unit, replacing fluids and doing the whole tube sealing, etc. - is just too much maintenance for me. I'm basically a pretty lazy guy that no longer spend time putting CCFL's, replacing fans, drilling holes, installing windows etc. - I did that ten years ago, since I've become a "buy, build, use, do low-maintenance" rinse and repeat,
I looked at the Swiftech H220, looks low-maintenance, and if this thing with Greg or with the store I bought the unit from doesn't pan out, I will just toss the h80i this autumn and buy that thing. |
Right Right. Honestly, maintaining a loop now days is a lot easier. Just put everything together, put some liquid nuke in and that's it. Put more water in once in a while and that's pretty much it.
But, things can go wrong so I see the problem there.
So ya, H220 when you can lol. It's an enclosed loop that, if you want to later on, can add on to it without voiding the warranty. |
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 19:17 Post subject: |
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I would not touch H220 with a long stick, there has been massive problems on it worldwide. Some guy have had 3 units in a row which all have leaked (finnish hardware forum).
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Stige
Posts: 3546
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Sun, 30th Jun 2013 20:01 Post subject: |
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| SpykeZ wrote: | | fisk wrote: | SpykeZ: I'm not a modder, I'm not a guy who will spend a lot of time after I've built my computer. The only maintenance I do is just check for dust every once in awhile and use a bottle of compressed air to blow it out.
Maintaining a full water-cooled unit, replacing fluids and doing the whole tube sealing, etc. - is just too much maintenance for me. I'm basically a pretty lazy guy that no longer spend time putting CCFL's, replacing fans, drilling holes, installing windows etc. - I did that ten years ago, since I've become a "buy, build, use, do low-maintenance" rinse and repeat,
I looked at the Swiftech H220, looks low-maintenance, and if this thing with Greg or with the store I bought the unit from doesn't pan out, I will just toss the h80i this autumn and buy that thing. |
Right Right. Honestly, maintaining a loop now days is a lot easier. Just put everything together, put some liquid nuke in and that's it. Put more water in once in a while and that's pretty much it.
But, things can go wrong so I see the problem there.
So ya, H220 when you can lol. It's an enclosed loop that, if you want to later on, can add on to it without voiding the warranty. |
Why would you have to add water to the loop? I have had mine running for 6 months now and it hasn't lost a single drop from it.
And no maintenance whatsoever.
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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| Posted: Tue, 2nd Jul 2013 04:00 Post subject: |
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CorsairGeorge is ignoring me, and so is Inet. =S
I am now going on a postal spree in Kentucky.
Try and find out where, FEDS!
Yes, yes I'm back.
Somewhat.
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| Posted: Tue, 2nd Jul 2013 04:39 Post subject: |
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| Stige wrote: | | SpykeZ wrote: | | fisk wrote: | SpykeZ: I'm not a modder, I'm not a guy who will spend a lot of time after I've built my computer. The only maintenance I do is just check for dust every once in awhile and use a bottle of compressed air to blow it out.
Maintaining a full water-cooled unit, replacing fluids and doing the whole tube sealing, etc. - is just too much maintenance for me. I'm basically a pretty lazy guy that no longer spend time putting CCFL's, replacing fans, drilling holes, installing windows etc. - I did that ten years ago, since I've become a "buy, build, use, do low-maintenance" rinse and repeat,
I looked at the Swiftech H220, looks low-maintenance, and if this thing with Greg or with the store I bought the unit from doesn't pan out, I will just toss the h80i this autumn and buy that thing. |
Right Right. Honestly, maintaining a loop now days is a lot easier. Just put everything together, put some liquid nuke in and that's it. Put more water in once in a while and that's pretty much it.
But, things can go wrong so I see the problem there.
So ya, H220 when you can lol. It's an enclosed loop that, if you want to later on, can add on to it without voiding the warranty. |
Why would you have to add water to the loop? I have had mine running for 6 months now and it hasn't lost a single drop from it.
And no maintenance whatsoever. |
6 months vs a year or more. I had my H50 for over a year and started losing water. |
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fisk
Posts: 9145
Location: Von Oben
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| Posted: Wed, 3rd Jul 2013 01:03 Post subject: |
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Yeah, doesn't seem like George reads his PM:s, or that his PM-box is spammed (more likely).
Yes, yes I'm back.
Somewhat.
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| Posted: Wed, 3rd Jul 2013 01:06 Post subject: |
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Last edited by Interinactive on Tue, 5th Oct 2021 03:19; edited 1 time in total
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| Posted: Wed, 3rd Jul 2013 01:12 Post subject: |
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Do you live in some igloo? Sounds impossible idle temps, even if power saving shit is on. What program you use for temperature monitoring?
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| Posted: Wed, 3rd Jul 2013 01:16 Post subject: |
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Last edited by Interinactive on Tue, 5th Oct 2021 03:19; edited 1 time in total
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Stige
Posts: 3546
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Wed, 3rd Jul 2013 03:18 Post subject: |
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You are basicly saying your room temperature is 12C.
Well is it? Because if it isn't then that is simply impossible.
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| Posted: Wed, 3rd Jul 2013 03:28 Post subject: |
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Last edited by Interinactive on Tue, 5th Oct 2021 03:19; edited 1 time in total
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What about contacting the place you bought it from? EU law is on your side with THAT one at least. I had more trouble fitting my Noctua NH-U12p (overrated shite...) than I did with my H80. The H80 slid on like a condom and is rock solid, the U12p had practically zero cooling performance - idling my old 3.6Ghz E7200 at 50 and full load breaking high 80s. I had to RMA the damned thing twice and it still didn't work, only the baseplate had any heat to it - the heatsink was stone cold >_<
