there are other differences, but this one is easily standing out
OK, I've got the v5 and updated it.
Speedtest always doing good over 600mbit (like 630), fast.com doing whatever it wants from 200 to 500.
Steam (tried multiple games) never goes above 70MB/s. for 600mbit connection, 75mb should be possible. Generally it ramps quite slowly and goes from 60 to 70 most of time.
And the router cpu is going 100% while at it.
So, it's working better than my older one but still not as good as connecting pc directly to modem.
AC speeds and range seem great though. Almost as good as wired even on oneplus 7t. unexpected. Anyway - seems like a fine purchase if it's CPU can keep up. I will test more tomorrow. Just for now seems that wired is faster directly from isp modem than through router. But that might be some may setting or bad testing on my part probably. If it will keep doing the speeds it does next week, then it's a success anyway!
3080, ps5, lg oled
Sin317-"im 31 years old and still surprised at how much shit comes out of my ass actually ..."
SteamDRM-"Call of Duty is the symbol of the true perfection in every aspect. Call of Duty games are like Mozart's/Beethoven's symphonies"
deadpoetic-"are you new to the cyberspace?"
2013...still using it right now.. Belkin Wireless Play Max (F7D4301) -same as N600HD. Paid $29
Flashed with Tomato.. Rock solid. Best router I've ever owned.
2013...still using it right now.. Belkin Wireless Play Max (F7D4301) -same as N600HD. Paid $29
Flashed with Tomato.. Rock solid. Best router I've ever owned.
2013...still using it right now.. Belkin Wireless Play Max (F7D4301) -same as N600HD. Paid $29
Flashed with Tomato.. Rock solid. Best router I've ever owned.
I just ran it and getting 162 down and 11 up. I pay for 150 down and 10 up, so these are correct speeds. Cable, ethernet. I also have a switch connected to it. I rarely have to reset it, only when my ISP goes down on their end. Whats nice with Tomato FW that it comes with WOL..so I can access my router from my phone and turn on my PC from anywhere.
2013...still using it right now.. Belkin Wireless Play Max (F7D4301) -same as N600HD. Paid $29
Flashed with Tomato.. Rock solid. Best router I've ever owned.
I just ran it and getting 162 down and 11 up. I pay for 150 down and 10 up, so these are correct speeds. Cable, ethernet. I also have a switch connected to it. I rarely have to reset it, only when my ISP goes down on their end. Whats nice with Tomato FW that it comes with WOL..so I can access my router from my phone and turn on my PC from anywhere.
I mean what grades do you get from the test?
Ryzen 7 9800X3D PBO ~-28/+200 | Freezer III 360 A-RGB | Strix X670E-F WiFi | Zotac RTX 4090 AMP Extreme AIRO | Fury Beast 64GB (2x 32GB) DDR5 5600MHz C40 @ 6000MHz C30 | 970 EVO Plus 2 TB | 38GN950-B | S.M.S.L RAW-MDA1 & HiFiMAN Arya Organic | Lancool III Snow White + 4x be quiet! Silent Wings Pro 4 140mm | RM1000x (2021) Gold | G Pro X SUPERLIGHT 2 & POWERPLAY | Win 11 Pro | Logitech MX MECHANICAL
I just ran it and getting 162 down and 11 up. I pay for 150 down and 10 up, so these are correct speeds. Cable, ethernet. I also have a switch connected to it. I rarely have to reset it, only when my ISP goes down on their end. Whats nice with Tomato FW that it comes with WOL..so I can access my router from my phone and turn on my PC from anywhere.
I mean what grades do you get from the test?
I just see three dots flashing on first page after test completes for buffer,speed...
I click on share results, then all I see are three grey solid circles for buffer/quality/speed. with no letters in them..
Ran it in FF,Chrome and Edge. Seems like this site is truly a POS...
It's broken at the moment, it normally works and gives you a grade for buffer bloat etc. On a decent router you'll do A+, most default firmwares are pretty crap (B/C rating). Basically you cannot game decent online while something is downloading. In most other cases buffer bloat is meaningless.
Install OpenWRT and enable flow offload. You'll do near 1Gbit on it.
E: It's in the firewall settings:
Routing/NAT Offloading
Software flow offloading
Software based offloading for routing/NAT
Can You elaborate what this means?
Edit: Further testing - Max I can get from steam with my 600mbit connecting via this routher wired s 65-69mb/s. Connected to ISP model directly gives me full 75. So it's not all bad but could be better. Also, sometimes it seems stuck aroung 50mb/s but it might be steam.
Nat is enabled and Nat boos also is enabled. Not tried any wrt or other software
3080, ps5, lg oled
Sin317-"im 31 years old and still surprised at how much shit comes out of my ass actually ..."
SteamDRM-"Call of Duty is the symbol of the true perfection in every aspect. Call of Duty games are like Mozart's/Beethoven's symphonies"
deadpoetic-"are you new to the cyberspace?"
Last edited by KillerCrocker on Wed, 11th Mar 2020 23:40; edited 1 time in total
I just ran it and getting 162 down and 11 up. I pay for 150 down and 10 up, so these are correct speeds. Cable, ethernet. I also have a switch connected to it. I rarely have to reset it, only when my ISP goes down on their end. Whats nice with Tomato FW that it comes with WOL..so I can access my router from my phone and turn on my PC from anywhere.
I mean what grades do you get from the test?
GRADE: A A A .across the board. Site is finally not broken anymore...Guess my router is pretty good for $29.
Install OpenWRT and enable flow offload. You'll do near 1Gbit on it.
E: It's in the firewall settings:
Routing/NAT Offloading
Software flow offloading
Software based offloading for routing/NAT
Can You elaborate what this means?
Edit: Further testing - Max I can get from steam with my 600mbit connecting via this routher wired s 65-69mb/s. Connected to ISP model directly gives me full 75. So it's not all bad but could be better. Also, sometimes it seems stuck aroung 50mb/s but it might be steam.
Nat is enabled and Nat boos also is enabled. Not tried any wrt or other software
Flow offloading means that the router is bypassing several layers that packets normally flow through (for processing such as QoS, throttling, etc), it basically means that it's not doing much more than a switch.
My router sucks, esp. WiFi. If I'm in the kitchen or on the loo watching something on youtube on my phone it's not unusual that I have to move the phone to get better reception. While I have 2.4/5GHz WiFi on the phone my old router only support 2.4GHz and it doesn't have any external antennas. Granted, I haven't played around with QoS and there's also a shit ton of people in my apartment building with routers that clutter up the channels.
It's a Netgear WNR3500v2 and I think it's from 2007 ( ). I've been running DD-WRT on it since I got it but since it's internal memory (4/16) is so low I can only use an old mini firmware with fewer features. There is a fairly recently updated firmware but it's in .chk format which I can't use to upgrade my firmware. I have no idea why there's no .bin version released. I don't think updating the firmware will improve anything anyway, I've tweaked and tested the router for so many hours over the years that I think it might be time to retire it and get a better one.
I guess I'll be looking at 2nd hand routers since money is an issue. I've seen Archer mentioned earlier in this thread. Any suggestions? I only have a 100/10 connection (can get up to 1000/1000 but I don't have the needs nor the money for that plan).
Checked dslreports and got this:
Ping I get is between 25-28ms. Those US servers are slow compared to the Amsterdam one.
Depending on the number of stream settings I get "A, A, A", "A+, A, A+" etc.
For some reason the DL speed never reach ~96-97Mbps which is what I get from basically every other test online or through pure usage.
In a crowded area you really want a 5GHz router as there are far more channels on 5GHz that don't overlap compared to 2.4GHz. Your scores aren't too bad though. I get A+, A and A+, I can get A+ on bufferbloat if I throttle the connection a little bit more but as I don't really play online games anymore I rather have a bit more download speed Archer C7 is 40€ second hand (without shipping) and 55€ (with shipping) new here, I don't think you can get much better for the money
However, my needs are rather modest so if I can get a C7 for 45€ over a C9 for 65-70€ I'll go for the C7. Now I just need to find out which version(s) of the C7 to stay away from.
Shipping not included in the prices above.
Currently using Steve Gibson's DNS Benchmark to build a top-50 resolver list to find the fastest DNS servers for me since I somehow fudged up all the settings on my router (had to reset it) and forgot to do that among other things.
I tried the C9 as well when I tried routers and found the Wi-Fi range significantly worse than the C7. The Archer MR200 and Archer C3200 I've not tried. The bit extra speed of the C9 wasn't worth it to me at least, I'd rather have a good range (which in itself gives more speed) But YMMV of course
do more expensive routers do bufferbloat without limiting your bandwidth or its the same thing as the video above? i saw some routers have aditional app/traffic prioritising setting. i never heard of bufferbloat until this thread and i always disabled qos as i thought its something you enable if you have slow internet speeds.
do more expensive routers do bufferbloat without limiting your bandwidth or its the same thing as the video above? i saw some routers have aditional app/traffic prioritising setting. i never heard of bufferbloat until this thread and i always disabled qos as i thought its something you enable if you have slow internet speeds.
No, to properly fix butter bloat you always needs to reserve *some* bandwidth. Depending on how often you need it you can decide how much you want to reseve. Ideally you want ~10% reserved, but 5% is OK most of the time. If you have a very fast connection you can typically also reserve less than 10% because there's more available. 5% of 100mbit is still a somewhat usable 5Mbit, whereas if you have 10Mbit connection you would get an usuable 0.5Mbit. You can see bandwidth as a pipe of water, if the pipe is full, you need to wait until it's (partially) empty. If there's 10% of volume unused, a new stream can be added to it immediately (either fully or partially depending on how much volume the new stream has). That's how you fix buffer bloat, you don't have to wait for that process to happen.
QoS is also needed for fast connections, but it really depends on how your connection is used. If you're the only one using the connection, you probably don't need it. If you're in a house with several downloading things, you would need it to get a workable connection everywhere or otherwise someone can almost full takeover your connection.
@Sin, nice speed, but you can see that DSLReports cannot fully test bufferbloat because the connection doesn't get filled properly
one has bandwidth control and the other only prioritising
They serve a different purpose, all prioritising is only for the current traffic. If your connection is already full, it needs to wait for it to (partially) empty first, that's buffer bloat (i.e., the network buffer is full).
Sin317 wrote:
I am limited by my 1gbit lan card ^^, I have a 10gb/10gb line, in theory
Sorry to revive the topic but since it's already created i'll post in 'ere better.
Been a while since my dad told me that the Neutral Router (a D-LINK) hasn't been giving him , so he says, the correct speeds for his work laptop or maybe even his iPad Air 2 or Galaxy A5.
We have the following stuff:
-An "ONT" router (the one that provides phone calls, internet and the company's TV service, wich has it's own device to connect to a TV via HDMI (and the usual ethernet cable) to make it work)
-The provider's router to spread all this love. The specs says it does 300MBps, BUT we have a 600MBps contract (60MB/s shown in JDownloader 2 when downloading tons of stuff from MEGA. It even reaches 70MB/s, wich's rare).. It's rare because if a router only can handle 300MBps it shouldn't go above that unless there's a firmware update or config change or something?
-A "Neutral" D-LINK router , the DIR-605L, wich goes at 300MBps , so it says on the official site.
Results in MB/s via a speedtest app from Spain (lag/latency reduced i take)
My PC via Ethernet Gigabit Cat6 cable: 600/600 (Correct), but it's connected to the provider's router directly , ofcourse..
As for the Neutral router, wich's connected to the other side of the house, but from an ethernet within-the-wall extension that goes between my room with the provider's router and the dining room (Aka neutral and provider are connected togheter via a "bridge"):
Ipad Air 2: 20DL, 30 UL
ASUS Laptop: Same as above
Galaxy S7: 50DL 64UL via Firefox, 37DL 55UL via the speedtest's app next to the provider's router.
Unless these devices (Except my PC, ofcourse) are DL/UL limited by it's modem or whatever inside em, i don't know if there's much i can do about the D-Link router.
---
HOWEVER, there's another topic that i wanna say.
Many people says that "switching the provider's router to a neutral one is much better to have than the provider's". Is that true?.
I've been reading online that people bought ASUS routers (Specifically an ASUS RT-AC87U) to have hella more powerful WiFi signals no matter how far you'd be from the router than the provider's (I guess?) besides of always providing the best gigabit ethernet speeds as possible among other security things, and also having this "Triple V-LAN" to handle the phone calls, internet and provider's TV service) to be a great replacement (That with a firmware update).
That you'd only just have to copy or note some stuff from the ONT or the provider's router (Spread the stuff one) and put it into the ASUS one and tadaaah.
The thing is: Is it worth it, or is it risky?. Would it help my gaming or surfing in some way or another for my PC?.. Would it even help replace the neutral D-Link router that we have in the dining room with this ASUS one to improve speeds or..?
Sorry for the confusions in some parts.
ASUS X570 TUF GAMING PLUS, 32GB DDR4@2666 ,RYZEN 5800X3D (NO OC),GIGABYTE RTX 4070 Super GAMING OC, Western Digital Blue 4TB 5400RPM + SAMSUNG 860 EVO 500+1TB GB SSDs , OEM SATA DVD 22xNoctua NH-D15 Chromax Black, BenQ XL2420T Case: Be Quiet! DARK BASE PRO 901. PSU CORSAIR RM1200 SHIFT
Install OpenWRT and enable flow offload. You'll do near 1Gbit on it.
E: It's in the firewall settings:
Routing/NAT Offloading
Software flow offloading
Software based offloading for routing/NAT
Can You elaborate what this means?
Edit: Further testing - Max I can get from steam with my 600mbit connecting via this routher wired s 65-69mb/s. Connected to ISP model directly gives me full 75. So it's not all bad but could be better. Also, sometimes it seems stuck aroung 50mb/s but it might be steam.
Nat is enabled and Nat boos also is enabled. Not tried any wrt or other software
I am sorry, I totally forgot about this thread.
Try updating your router firmware.
Then enable QoS and set PC as priority.
I think they totally revamped NAT boost also at some point.
It's in system parameters now.
Thanks. nat and nat boost is enabled
Firmware seems to be the latest.
qos was disabled so I enabled it and prioritized the pc.
Will test for some time but don't see outright improvement on speedtest (but it''s a shit test, steam is better)
btw - I have 2,4 enabled and hidden with only the roomba vacuum connected to it(it does not support 5ghz). Can I maybe change transmit power to low or some otehr settings so the roomba works but 2,4 is not using too much of routers resources? Anyway - even with 2,4 disabled there is no improvement really.
3080, ps5, lg oled
Sin317-"im 31 years old and still surprised at how much shit comes out of my ass actually ..."
SteamDRM-"Call of Duty is the symbol of the true perfection in every aspect. Call of Duty games are like Mozart's/Beethoven's symphonies"
deadpoetic-"are you new to the cyberspace?"
Your router can only be as good as the incoming connection, and if that is shite, then so will the router be. Always remember that What does matter, is the CPU, aka dual or quad?, likewise, memory, depending on how many devices you have connected to your network, and that does make a difference, load wise.
Last edited by scaramonga on Fri, 21st Aug 2020 08:19; edited 4 times in total
i still have an 8 year old Asus RT-N66U dual-band wireless-N900, it delivers leading performance on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands with up to 900Mbps in total bandwidth
Uptime 20 days 8 hours 0 minute(s) 23 seconds
only 20days because i had a blackout on my street...
my next router will be Asus with wifi6 and usb 3.0 port dual core
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). I've been running DD-WRT on it since I got it but since it's internal memory (4/16) is so low I can only use an old mini firmware with fewer features. There is a fairly recently updated firmware but it's in .chk format which I can't use to upgrade my firmware. I have no idea why there's no .bin version released. I don't think updating the firmware will improve anything anyway, I've tweaked and tested the router for so many hours over the years that I think it might be time to retire it and get a better one.
Archer C7 is 40€ second hand (without shipping) and 55€ (with shipping) new here, I don't think you can get much better for the money 
