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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Fri, 26th Nov 2010 19:51 Post subject: |
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It's been a while since I updated this, but I've got some stuff coming up. Waiting for Cayman to be released so I can update the GPU section.
More importantly though, I'll be writing a bit about SSD's. Since the start of this thread, they've dropped to about half their price (they're down to about €1.5 now, from about €3 when I started this), and they're becoming a realistic, sensible upgrade now - I'm considering buying one myself. It's important to understand what SSD's do and how they do it though, so you can understand what you should be using it for, so that's what I'll try to cover. Especially with Intel's G3 lurking around the corner, I expect the current generations to drop a bit more before leveling out.
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Werelds
Special Little Man
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Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Sat, 18th Dec 2010 23:22 Post subject: |
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Updated both parts, still a few bits 'n bobs I need to straighten out, and the CPU section needs some price updates, but performance reasoning and brand choice there hasn't changed one bit.
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Mon, 31st Jan 2011 17:01 Post subject: |
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Updating this again soon, GPU section needs updating (560 is out + 6990/595 are coming), as does the CPU section (Sandy Bridge).
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Posted: Tue, 1st Feb 2011 10:47 Post subject: |
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Thanks go on 
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Posted: Sun, 20th Mar 2011 13:08 Post subject: |
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Last edited by Yondaime on Mon, 2nd Dec 2024 15:47; edited 1 time in total
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Posted: Mon, 9th May 2011 22:32 Post subject: |
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H2 is cheap copy of Fractal Design R3. Also its more expensive (atleast in here finland, 110€) -.-
This in other hand is sexy case, coming next month.
http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=57
Getting Arc or 650D Corsair for my summer build.
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Posted: Fri, 13th May 2011 16:46 Post subject: |
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Fri, 13th May 2011 17:18 Post subject: |
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Most likely that's a pin on the sensor chip which your motherboard manufacturer decided not to use, so any values it displays are bullshit. Tell me which motherboard or sensorchip it is and I can probably tell you 
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Posted: Fri, 13th May 2011 17:20 Post subject: |
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Fri, 13th May 2011 21:11 Post subject: |
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Yep, that's a dummy connection.
Chip is the NCT6776F, 3 temperature pins, but only 2 are used. One on the CPU package (which is the inaccurate CPU temperature; like the outside of the thing, instead of the actual cores) and one at the Southbridge
Aux is the unused one, because I'm assuming "Emaplaat" means "Motherboard" (plaat in Dutch also means board, sort of, first similarity with Finnish!) 
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TSR69
Banned
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Location: Republic of the Seven United Provinces
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Sat, 14th May 2011 19:57 Post subject: |
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Frant
King's Bounty
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Location: Your Mom
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TSR69
Banned
Posts: 14962
Location: Republic of the Seven United Provinces
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Posted: Sat, 14th May 2011 21:21 Post subject: |
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@Werelds: Nah don't think so. The Asus monitor tool is fubar anyway, the temp for the CPU is like 10 degrees off (lower) compared with Real Temp. But HWMonitor also reports 123 degrees Celsius for SYSTIN. Hmm if some MB component is cooking at that temp, something should be smoking inside my case, right?
I hate this board, been busy for hours to get a stable OC at 4,4/4,2/4,0 GHz. A lot if you realise I run some DC-processes 24/7 with HT on. Still the hottest core showed 67/68 degrees Celsius (peak 70) at 4,4 GHz. No indication whatsoever that the CPU can't sustain this for prolonged times, okay this kind of usage will lower the life expectancy. The BIOS of the MB doesn't allow me to set the V-core directly, the BIOS uses the turbo mode for these OC's and sets everything itself. Prime95 will run stable for a minute or so at 4,4 GHz and then it starts throttling, meaning the clock gets switched back to 3,4 GHz and is then upped again in a few steps. Tried everything to block this behaviour including setting the TPD to 125 W in the BIOS. Wish I had Googled some more before buying this MB.
/rant
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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Posted: Sun, 15th May 2011 20:22 Post subject: |
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iconized wrote: | @Werelds: Nah don't think so. The Asus monitor tool is fubar anyway, the temp for the CPU is like 10 degrees off (lower) compared with Real Temp. But HWMonitor also reports 123 degrees Celsius for SYSTIN. Hmm if some MB component is cooking at that temp, something should be smoking inside my case, right? |
Well 123 (technically 123.8 ) is the reported "calibration" temperature by a unused pin often, so that'll explain the value.
The ASUS monitor tool isn't off, it's just a different sensor; one you don't care about, but it's entirely accurate. Ever since the C2D's, Intel's CPUs have had temperature sensors right in the cores, and that's what Realtemp displays.
The sensor the tool uses is the package sensor; a sensor that takes its reading from the outside of the package. Always differs, depending on the cooler it can be hotter or cooler; it accumulates heat from all 4 cores, but it can also dissipate much better with a good cooler 
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vurt
Posts: 13586
Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sun, 26th Jun 2011 15:33 Post subject: |
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Anyone with the Asus Sabertooth P67 B3 M/B? Which BIOS is recommended (for overclocking?)
Also, how good is the Intel Core i7 2600K 3,4GHz Socket 1155 for overclocking purposes?
Last edited by vurt on Sun, 26th Jun 2011 15:34; edited 1 time in total
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Ankh
Posts: 23251
Location: Trelleborg
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vurt
Posts: 13586
Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sun, 26th Jun 2011 15:40 Post subject: |
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Sounds great Ankh. I actually did very little research this time when i ordered new parts. In fact so little research that i initially bought a motherboard for another socket so i had to order another board, lol. I also had to order a new PSU, my old Seasonic wont put out enough amps for the GTX580 i bought it seems.
Edit: Been doing some overclocking today.
CPU is running great @ 4.8GHz, currently its 31-32c, when gaming it goes up to 39c, very impressed with that since i'm running on air cooling and i've upped the voltage on the CPU quite a bit to get that kind of overclock.
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Posted: Thu, 6th Oct 2011 12:46 Post subject: |
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As long as yout dad sticks to gaming, i7-2600K is not needed.
You mean NH-D14 ? A bit overkill. Unless your dad does heavy OC, you can stick with newer CM Hyper series or Sigmater Aegir etc.
i5 6600k @ 4.3 GHz | MSI z170 Gaming M7 | 32GB Kingston HyperX Fury | 850 Evo 500GB | EVGA 1070 SC | Seasonic X-660 | CM Storm Stryker
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Posted: Thu, 6th Oct 2011 12:49 Post subject: |
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I'm quite confident he'll want the best of the best, hehe.
So overclocking is gonna happen for sure, 4.5 - 4.8 ghz hopefully!
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trashci
Posts: 922
Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Fri, 7th Oct 2011 22:34 Post subject: |
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Im not sure is this the right thread but
Can a 550W psu power a HD6870 and an Atlhon II x4(Well, originally an unlocked X3, that is)?
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Posted: Tue, 15th Nov 2011 01:35 Post subject: |
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Some (hopefully) news.
Next generation of the AMD and Nvidia cards will both be 28nm, that's a 12nm difference from the generation of graphic cards we're in right now I believe? Quite a sizable difference, in addition to that, AMD are rumoured to release their graphics cards the second week in January, so if you feel the urge to upgrade to a 6950, GTX570 or whatever, hold onto your money and wait and see how well the upcoming AMD units will be. Hopefully we will see some good cooling solutions for the AMD cards, because that is what I feel that the Nvidia cards excel at as it is now.
Speaking of which, I guess MSi crafted cards are the best of the best for AMD cards? while retaining the 2 expansion slot size? Unlike the beast of a cooler that is the DirectCU II by ASUS that is just too big if you intend on popping in a half-decent soundcard.
Oh, and.. http://seekingalpha.com/article/307194-nvidia-s-ceo-discusses-q3-2012-results-earnings-call-transcript?part=qanda
Code: |
Southern Islands Radeon HD 7000
New Zealand HD 7990
Tahiti XT HD 7970
Tahiti Pro HD 7950
Thames XT HD 7870
Thames Pro HD 7850
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Posted: Sat, 12th May 2012 16:15 Post subject: |
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Bumping this, rather than creating a new thread.
I'm looking at buying a new hard drive. My current WD Caviar Black 1tb is... Well, Win7 is acting a lot slower than usual, and I know the RAM, CPU and graphics are fine. They're all new tech (within the last 6 months or so?). The HD, though, has been with me for a good 3 years or so. Things like thumbnails taking an age to load, blank icons in folders, that sort of thing, are making me paranoid, and I'm reasonably certain it's due to the HD dying.
Anyways. Looked the HD recommendations on the first page, and it talks about large drives with multiple platters. I've been looking at buying this
http://www.aria.co.uk/SuperSpecials/Other+products/1TB+Seagate+ST1000DM003+Barracuda+7200.12+SATA+III+6Gb%2Fs+Hard+Drive+-+HDD+?productId=48501
Which is apparently single-platter. Is it worth getting? How good are Seagate? I had a look at Amazon reviews of it, and it appears there's a fair number of faulty units, but is that really indicative of them being badly produced nowadays?
In short... Halps pls. 
Pixieking
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ASUS P8P67 Evo - Intel i7 3770k - 2X4GB GSkill RipJaws X DDR3 1600 - HIS 7950 IceQ - Creative XtremeMusic Soundcard - NZXT Phantom 530 - Thermaltake Toughpower XT 675 - Win7 x64
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Werelds
Special Little Man
Posts: 15098
Location: 0100111001001100
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