Those fucking cars in nfss are like motherfucking bricks, i mean what the crap man you touch the opponent's car and you're like lagging a bit on the left or right . the fuck game is this .
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Those fucking cars in nfss are like motherfucking bricks, i mean what the crap man you touch the opponent's car and you're like lagging a bit on the left or right . the fuck game is this .
Ok, i've read your post three times now and i've got no idea what you are talking about?
You touch their car and you lag a bit on the left or right??
Those fucking cars in nfss are like motherfucking bricks, i mean what the crap man you touch the opponent's car and you're like lagging a bit on the left or right . the fuck game is this .
Ok, i've read your post three times now and i've got no idea what you are talking about?
You touch their car and you lag a bit on the left or right??
Anyway, I like the car-car interactions, the computer players aren't "cheating like in other games, where they are like on rails and they push you off like it's nothing.
Also, some computer drivers are really aggressive sometimes !! When they ram me I usually scream "fucking carmaggeddon fanboys ! fuck you !11 "
The thing I don't understand is why do we have to pick the language on every startup. Did they screw up or is this by design? I hope when they release a patch they disable this menu.
Some pretty cool cars in the game later on (Tier 3 and 4, can't seem to upgrade tier 4 cars however, unfortuantely as I like that kinda stuff plus it alters the vehicles look a bit.), I'm not much for racing titles in general but they can be fun at times, quite different from other NfS titles but it's not a bad game as such, ofcourse I don't have much to compare it to.
Basically it says everything (sensitivity) should be 50% (for wheel), guess I have to try it then. I just went with setting on how it's done on other games, as is the bigger the value the more linear the setting is.
If it's really true, then my 90% Acceleration Sensitivity will be the reason for drift being so hard
edit: wuhuu, it works. I was wondering how perfect launch was so impossible. Now with 50% gas sensitivity I got it on first try..
350Z drift thing still came last, but now it at least didn't spin on every run Own drift tuned car is muuuch easier and won couple other drift events.
For those getting the 'Black Screen' crash, try this graphics config, courtesy EA forums.
Just copy and paste over the GraphicsConfig.xml in your My Documents folder. The good news is, I've just been playing for half an hour without a crash. I haven't changed any of the settings whilst in-game though, so if anyone does and it stays stable, let us know.
Edit to add: I changed the resolution to 1280x1024 instead of 720 without a problem, it still worked.
Steering Dead Zone-15%
Accel Dead Zone-10%
Brake Dead Zone-10%
Steering sensitivity-5%
Acell Sensitivity -5%
Brake sensitivity-5%
Speed steering Sensitivity 100%
On to the 2nd fix:
At the main menu enter CAR GARAGE----> TUNING, press 'Y' to enter quick tuning mode.
Under the heading 'balance' move the slider all the way to OVERSTEER. That's right oversteer. Apparently the developer labeled this slider wrong or its a glitch. Turning the slider to oversteer will actually add understeer.
The thing is,you cant go below 0 with the numbers on the pc version.
Does anyone have a guide for the controlls and how to adjust them? I´m too feeling like it´s either full left or right turn or nothing, what gives?
That always f*cks up my plan going through curves lol.
And drifting is hard with keyboard, but I managed to get through the first drift races on Tier1 but I honestly doesn´t enjoy it, feels similar to assemble nano electronic components with a slegde hammer 0_o
But all in all and to draw a verdict it´s the best title out of the NFS series.
Really like the refreshing style of driving where your car doesn´t go automatically on rails around the shicanes.
But first I thought what the heck is going on, always breaks before the proper breaking point.... then figured there is Auto breaking enabled.... come on there shouldn´t be a default setting on a racing game where it breaks for you automatically.
Reminds me of iNatans video with the one button playthrough lol.
Steering Dead Zone 5%
Accel Dead Zone 5%
Brake Dead Zone 5%
Steering sensitivity 30%
Acell Sensitivity 30%
Brake sensitivity 30%
Speed steering Sensitivity 100%
that's for driving on experienced setting...
Last edited by SMX on Sun, 20th Sep 2009 19:17; edited 1 time in total
Go to my garage, pick a car and go to tuning. Choose advanced tuning. What happens when you do this is that all the sliders ( and i mean all the sliders) are set all the way to the left by default. This has to be a BIG glitch. What you do is press L3 ( on the ps3 controller anyways, dont know about the Xbox controller) Then all the sliders and settings are set to the original defaults.
After you have done this you are all set to do some fine tuning and really enjoy this game like it was supposed to be.
On a side note i have found out that the works cars need to be adjusted up a notch or two on the ride hight setting.
Hope this is helpfull for some of you guys
Edit:
I just found out that you need to do the whole advanced tuning reset thing every time you restart the game....
Quote:
Steering Dead Zone-15%
Accel Dead Zone-10%
Brake Dead Zone-10%
Steering sensitivity-5%
Acell Sensitivity -5%
Brake sensitivity-5%
Speed steering Sensitivity 100%
On to the 2nd fix:
At the main menu enter CAR GARAGE----> TUNING, press 'Y' to enter quick tuning mode.
Under the heading 'balance' move the slider all the way to OVERSTEER. That's right oversteer. Apparently the developer labeled this slider wrong or its a glitch. Turning the slider to oversteer will actually add understeer.
FFS, to the original poster, PLEASE ADD those two fixes to the first post, makes NFS:Shift a totally different game, MUCH MUCH BETTER.
For example, after tuning any car to Tier 2 performance, they would steer like crazy and get themselves on the walls by steering by themselves even during easy breaking (I'm using the analog triggers on the X360 gamepads, and I know how to brake.)
These settings make a HUGE difference, the cars handle perfectly with the X360 controller, and I hear the settings fix wheel problems too.
Now a stupid question, whats the difference between "digital" and "analog" setting on gampad, i never play games with it, so yeah im noob with gamepads, i hove no idea which one is turned on, green light is on but dont know for which one, and when i change to off (light is off on pad) controls don't work (everything is unbinded), and then again if i switch to on , controls are back -.-
Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro | AMD Ryzen 5800X3D + be quiet! Dark Rock 4 | KFA2 RTX 4080 | 32GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 @3600MHz | Samsung 860 Evo 500GB + 1TB + 10TB WD Blue | Corsair RM750x | LG 27GL83A + LG 27GL850 | Fractal Define R6 | Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth | DeathAdder Chroma
Now a stupid question, whats the difference between "digital" and "analog" setting on gampad, i never play games with it, so yeah im noob with gamepads, i hove no idea which one is turned on, green light is on but dont know for which one, and when i change to off (light is off on pad) controls don't work (everything is unbinded), and then again if i switch to on , controls are back -.-
If the setting is digital/analog, it's regarding the use of the left analog stick or not. Some like the analog movement, some like it old-fashioned (digital). If you use the analog setting, you use the left analog stick and the D-pad as different pairs of axis, and they are used for different functions. If you use the digital setting, the left analog stick is disabled, and the axis that were normally controlled by the stick are now binded to the D-Pad. The original D-Pad axis are now unbinded.
Now a stupid question, whats the difference between "digital" and "analog" setting on gampad, i never play games with it, so yeah im noob with gamepads, i hove no idea which one is turned on, green light is on but dont know for which one, and when i change to off (light is off on pad) controls don't work (everything is unbinded), and then again if i switch to on , controls are back -.-
If the setting is digital/analog, it's regarding the use of the left analog stick or not. Some like the analog movement, some like it old-fashioned (digital). If you use the analog setting, you use the left analog stick and the D-pad as different pairs of axis, and they are used for different functions. If you use the digital setting, the left analog stick is disabled, and the axis that were normally controlled by the stick are now binded to the D-Pad. The original D-Pad axis are now unbinded.
Thx for explanation
Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro | AMD Ryzen 5800X3D + be quiet! Dark Rock 4 | KFA2 RTX 4080 | 32GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB DDR4 @3600MHz | Samsung 860 Evo 500GB + 1TB + 10TB WD Blue | Corsair RM750x | LG 27GL83A + LG 27GL850 | Fractal Define R6 | Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Stealth | DeathAdder Chroma
digitalhex
used premiere elements for the pitcure in pitcure
game is ran at 1280 x 768 with all setting to the max at 75hrz
fraps captured at 640 x 384 at 30fps replays in car and outside car
premiere elements output at 1280 x 720
then AVSVideoConverter converted for youtube
trying to see if i can get a profile for elements for outputto youtube specs
digitalhex
used premiere elements for the pitcure in pitcure
game is ran at 1280 x 768 with all setting to the max at 75hrz
fraps captured at 640 x 384 at 30fps replays in car and outside car
premiere elements output at 1280 x 720
then AVSVideoConverter converted for youtube
trying to see if i can get a profile for elements for outputto youtube specs
So you upscaled your FRAPS 640x383 video capture to 1280x720? Wouldn't it be better to capture in your resolution of 1280x768 then crop it to 1280x720?
Now a stupid question, whats the difference between "digital" and "analog" setting on gampad, i never play games with it, so yeah im noob with gamepads, i hove no idea which one is turned on, green light is on but dont know for which one, and when i change to off (light is off on pad) controls don't work (everything is unbinded), and then again if i switch to on , controls are back -.-
If the setting is digital/analog, it's regarding the use of the left analog stick or not. Some like the analog movement, some like it old-fashioned (digital). If you use the analog setting, you use the left analog stick and the D-pad as different pairs of axis, and they are used for different functions. If you use the digital setting, the left analog stick is disabled, and the axis that were normally controlled by the stick are now binded to the D-Pad. The original D-Pad axis are now unbinded.
The difference goes farther than just the D-pad and the sticks.
Analog adds sensitivity to the face buttons as well, allowing you to finetune the steering, accelerating and braking.
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Own drift tuned car is muuuch easier and won couple other drift events.
