When the 360 gets hot the GPU looses the connection to the ana chip which results in these patterns and a freeze.
Now when ^this^ happens to you, your console is on the path to E74 error. That was the case with the console Im working with. In order to prevent this from happening, what you need to do here is reflow (heatgun) the area between ANA and GPU.
Here is exactly what I did to get rid of these freezes and artifacts
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First I heatgunned the highlighted area on 1000F degrees for exactly 4 minutes:
I left the console alone for exactly 46 minutes. Flipped it over and heatgunned the highlighted area on 750F degrees for exactly 1 minute and then switched to 1000F degree setting and heatgunned the remaining 3 minutes:
Left it alone for exactly 46 minutes. Console works perfectly, never saw E74 error and never saw the artifacts again. Its very important that the motherboard doesn't get moved at all during your heating sessions.
NOTE: Your console can show different types of artifacts depending on what is wrong with it. This console only showed these red artifacts and sometimes it was showing black and white horizontal lines. These 2 types of artifacts are ANA chip related.
If I come accross other types of artifacts, I will try to post more information about them as I go along. If your console freezes and shows artifacts, take a picture and post it here.
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Some days ago I was playing 360 and suddenly the whole picture became greenish. The lighting (especially HDR) was colored green. I could continue playing, no freezes, no RROD. When I went back to the dashboard the picture stayed greenish for 1 or 2 minutes then suddenly the true colors came back. Really freaky! I guess the GPU overheated (but there were no artifacts, only green color). Did anyone encounter something like this before? I never heard about that.
Some days ago I was playing 360 and suddenly the whole picture became greenish. The lighting (especially HDR) was colored green. I could continue playing, no freezes, no RROD. When I went back to the dashboard the picture stayed greenish for 1 or 2 minutes then suddenly the true colors came back. Really freaky! I guess the GPU overheated (but there were no artifacts, only green color). Did anyone encounter something like this before? I never heard about that.
Yup that has happened to my console as well. I thought there was something wrong with my eyes at first lol. After a few minutes of playing COD4, there would be a greenish hue on the screen and then when I went back to dashboard the hue would still remain. Then a few days later the picture went completely black. To fix this problem I had reflow GPU -> ANA.
The greenish hue should return eventually if it's not taken care of. If the console works fine now, hold off until it shows greenish hue on the screen again.
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Greenish hue/black picture
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A discoloration is ANA chip related.
Solutions 1. X-clamp fix GPU first: When I say x-clamp fix I dont actually mean remove the x-clamps because that has obviously been done already. Just replace the thermal paste between your GPU and the GPU heatsink. Use a card of some sort and make sure you have a very fine layer of paste for better heat conductivity.
2. Reflow the area between ANA and GPU (Exactly what I did in my previous post.)
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I think that has already been done multiple times by the shop where I bought the console. I still have a few months of warranty left so if something happens again I will just send the thing back for the 4th time.
I changed the position of the console and it didn't happen again yet. Maybe that did the trick. Theres nothing but air now all around the case.
Here is a bit of info I thought I should share. Now Ive been debating this over and over for the past few months but after a lot of trial and error I finally came to a conclusion:
The room temperature that you play your console in, almost doesn't make a difference at all. You can have an xbox 360 console overheat in a 65F degree room within 5 minutes and you can have another xbox 360 console play perfectly in a 90F degree room for several hours.
This is probably a good thing to keep in mind before you decide to run up your electricity bill with the air conditioner every time you play your console.
ASUS Maximus XII Formula | Core i9 10900k @ 5.2Ghz | 32GB G.Skill DDR4 4200Mhz | EVGA RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra Hydro Copper | ASUS ROG PG35VQ
So Ive decided to keep buying broken xbox 360s from ebay and just get the green lights back on there and sell em. So far it's been going pretty well. I don't really consider this a job though since I dont have a work schedule or a boss. Usually about 75% of the time you'll recieve error code 0102 xboxes lol
Pretty easy way to make some money if anybody is as lazy as me. Takes about an hour of labor per week. And you make approximately $60 to $70 in profit per xbox. Theres one special sale Ive made so far to this guy in Sweden who payed me $225 for a flashed NTSC samsung console. Shipping was $49 though lol but still made a profit of about $150.
Its pretty cool though you learn a lot of shit about your own xbox 360. You get to work from the comfort of your own home. The only time you have to step outside your home is when you goto the post office to mail the console. Another cool thing is, you play xbox 360 for a few hours (for testing the console after fix). But it's almost like youre getting paid to play
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hello, i got a xbox for like 5 days and got 2 freezes and some slowdowns..
about the freezes i got with bully but i am okey since i read it was a problematic game. and with naruto rise of a ninja.. i already finished it. was +/- 10h of gameplay and 1 freeze..
about the slowdowns i get a few when it is changing from ingame to cutscene or loading areas.. but when in game is flawless and real nice
but getting one with a modable drive is hard nowadays. and if i send it to warranty since i have everything perfectly done when modded it will for certain get a lite on xD
so back to my question.. should i be worried with those freezes and slowdowns? i really could use some help.. i am freaking out here
but getting one with a modable drive is hard nowadays. and if i send it to warranty since i have everything perfectly done when modded it will for certain get a lite on xD
so back to my question.. should i be worried with those freezes and slowdowns? i really could use some help.. i am freaking out here
but getting one with a modable drive is hard nowadays. and if i send it to warranty since i have everything perfectly done when modded it will for certain get a lite on xD
so back to my question.. should i be worried with those freezes and slowdowns? i really could use some help.. i am freaking out here
the Liteon is not moddable yet but now that key is readable (with a serial cable) you can replace the Liteon dvdrom for a Samsung or a BenQ.
i have some verbatim.. but the ones that got the 2 freezes were ridisk :S
verbatim is the best but those just came along.. that could probably be the problem... dunno
still i dont have yet a dl burner.. i am trying to get a pioneer that is recommend for burning xbox games but isnt easy to find.. after that only verbatim will be used!
btw i dont know how hot is the standard for a xbox so i use a outside fan to put some air to cover all the xbox and always have a fresh flow to force the hot one keep going away from it.
the only part that is hot after it its the part from behind. when i touch it it kinda feels hot but you can easly stay there with your hand as long as you want..
i am a big noob to the xbox world and with all that kinda fuck up things that happen to the xbox. i am kinda scared so thats why i am asking whati can do to keep it working properly
i had the green screen shit and my mate had RROD. fixed both by replacing with AS5. then I used the disconnect fan trick to overheat the gpu/cpu for reflow. then i tightened the clamps on the x-clamp using pliers. that was 6 months+ ago and both still working great. i dont believe overheating has anything to do with it anyways, its just crap design so the solder joints dry out or crack prob the way the force is applied by x-clamps. best solution is to use the screws and washers method but i cba doing this.
i had the green screen shit and my mate had RROD. fixed both by replacing with AS5. then I used the disconnect fan trick to overheat the gpu/cpu for reflow.
The chips do not get hot enough for a reflow. The system shuts down at a certain temperature and never reaches the reflow temp. You need external tools such as a heatgun that is able to go upto 1000F degrees for a proper reflow.
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overheating just allows the board to become more softer and flex back to a working postion.
ah well whatever the cause it fixes the issue for a long time and so far no signs of it reverting. didnt realise it shutsdown when too hot, hmmm it sure was too hot for the touch im sure it was hot enough to melt solder but who cares I guess.
edit: i should add that i had to keep tunring on and off at a certain point many times to cause the temp to continually rise. yes it shuts off but always heats up for first 4 secons or so after you turn on so on and off in quick succession etc does cause it to coninually heat up. i may then be correct afterall.
Seems I'm lucky enough to join the RRoD-club. I've had my box for quite some time now, something like 2.5 years i think and it's been working flawlessly. Then I helped two friends mod their boxes during the last month or so and I said to both of them that my box was long overdue for a RRoD and I also said something like "Well I guess I'm just lucky." Shouldn't have said that, or at least i should have finished with "Knock on wood." BUT NO, I HAD TO SAY IT.
Anyways, to the point. Me and my friend were going to play some Rainbow Six Vegas and were quite surprised when the game froze up on us after just a minute of gameplay, I thought that all right it's just the game or something, i hadn't played it in a year. So we fired up Vegas 2 instead, went through the menus and everything but after 2-3 minutes of gameplay it also froze up. After two or three reboots with the same result it no longer booted at all, just a blank screen. Then HELLO THERE a full red ring.
And nothing has changed since then. Now the funny (yeah real funny) thing is that it is a full red ring, not just three red bars, but four. Which from what I've read indicate that it's just a problem with the AV-cable. I thought it sounded strange since it froze and everything, but i borrowed a friends AV-cable just to check but with the same result.
So I checked the error code which turns out to be 0102. Code 0102 is = Error in the "Digital Backbone" (CPU/GPU/RAM)
But the thing is 0102, as far as I understand should be 3 RRoD and not 4 RRoD. So yeah anyways I'm a bit pissy, surprised and at a loss here.
Any tips on what to do?
Taking it to MS is a no go, I did a horrible job with the MS-stickers and as I said it's an old box, I see my chances with MS fixing it as zero to none.
The extra shitty thing is that I had actually been thinking that "Shit, it's gonna crash and burn sooner or later" but it's so perfect that with Fable2 and The Force Unleashed coming soon that it decides to fuck up now. AND to top it off I can't go and buy myself a new one cause it'll have a fucking LiteOn.
Or well I suppose I could get myself an Arcade and just change the DVD from my fucked one to the new one and take my HDD from the old to the new as well?
1. You can try an x-clamp fix first because it almost always fixes the problem for the first time. Remove the x-clamps and then replace the thermal paste with a very thin layer of Arctic Silver 5 paste. If you need more info on this, Il post detailed instructions tommorow
2. A better fix would be to reflow the area between the GPU and CPU. When reflowing don't use plastic foil because the tape will get vaporized leaving tape residue behind. And when I say reflow I mean heatgun that crap. Just add a double layer of aluminum foil to cover all components except the GPU and CPU area. Make sure the screw holes are not covered.
Heatgun the area in a circular motion for exactly 4 minutes at 750F-900F degree heatgun setting and then let the motherboard rest for about 20 to 30 minutes. And all should be fine. If you need detailed instructions for this Il post some pics tommorow.
The console Im using right now also had 0102 but I just did a reflow and its working fine.
ASUS Maximus XII Formula | Core i9 10900k @ 5.2Ghz | 32GB G.Skill DDR4 4200Mhz | EVGA RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra Hydro Copper | ASUS ROG PG35VQ
Taking it to MS is a no go, I did a horrible job with the MS-stickers and as I said it's an old box, I see my chances with MS fixing it as zero to none.
Well you have nothing to lose - just try it! You might be lucky and get a brand new console. This is the first thing I would try before doing anything else. All these different fixes like towel, heatgun, X-Clamp, addon fan etc don't work forever. If you had the ring once you will see it again! I had it four times already. I'm awaiting my console from MS right now - I hope they replaced it.
Sending it to MS is the best thing you can do. And it doesn't cost you anything. I think theoretically you could also send it to MS a second time if they refuse to fix/replace it the first time. I will do it if they send me back my broken red-ringing crap box.
Oh and there's also the possibility to buy a MS sticker. I think they usually cost around 30 €.
Ive gotten lazy fixing stupid xboxes. I just buy the RROD ones now and slap a warranty sticker on there and send it off to MS. It just requires a phone call instead of determining error codes and stripping the motherboard out and then wrapping it with foil and stuff. I HATE wrapping the motherboard with foil!! lol it always feels like Im working on an art project.
Unfortunately my own xbox just got RROD today. But Im not sending this one off because its got an MS25 in it. And I laaaaaaaaaave MS25s
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You don't even have to call them! You can request a repair online at the Xbox support site. Then you'll get an email with the Ups sticker that you need.
I've got my console back now. Repaired! Even though it had a big scratch on the MS sticker.
Code:
Following examination by our failure analysis technicians your XBOX was found to have a problem with the
[ ] Power Supply
[x] DVD Drive
[ ] Controller ports
[x] Mother board
[ ] Other
This failing component has now been re-placed [...]
Yeah right, fucking liars my flashable Samsung drive was perfectly fine! Stupid Liteon crap....
Now I have a working 360 but no games to play. This almost feels líke a Pyrrhic victory. Thank god you can swap drives now....
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I'm awaiting my console from MS right now - I hope they replaced it. 
